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The Journal

Field notes from
one forest.

Essays and field notes on the Atlantic Rainforest — its wildlife, its voices, its rescue — written from the trails our journeys walk.

A golden lion tamarin in the lowland Atlantic Rainforest

Wildlife · 7 min read

Where to See Golden Lion Tamarins in the Wild

There is exactly one place on Earth. This is how to reach it — and who will meet you there.

Before you read on

Meet the cast of the forest first.

Twenty-eight species — tamarins, toucans, owls, the muriqui — with their true names, territories and stories. The Field Guide to everything you are about to read.

Open the Field Guide
Mist over the mountains of the Atlantic Rainforest

The Forest · 6 min

Atlantic Rainforest or Atlantic Forest? Inside Brazil’s Other Great Forest

Two names, one biome — and a quiet argument about the most endangered paradise you have never heard of.

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Golden lion tamarin portrait

Conservation · 8 min

The Comeback: How the Golden Lion Tamarin Returned from 200 to Thousands

The greatest conservation story you have never heard — and the people still writing it.

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Rio de Janeiro at the edge of the Atlantic Rainforest

Travel · 5 min

Two Hours from Rio: The Rainforest Most Visitors Never See

Beyond the postcard lies the wildest secret in any world city: a forest that starts inside it.

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The mid-canopy of the Atlantic Rainforest

Wildlife · 6 min

The Great Hawks of the Canopy: Raptors of the Atlantic Rainforest

Above the tamarins, someone is always watching. Meet the crowned hunters of the Rio de Janeiro forests.

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A toucan perched in the Atlantic Rainforest canopy

Wildlife · 7 min

Toucans of the Atlantic Rainforest: A Field Guide

The fruit-eaters with the impossible beaks — who they are, where they sit, and how to be ready when they arrive.

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The Atlantic Rainforest under a starry sky

Wildlife · 6 min

The Night Shift: Ocelots, Owls and Fireflies After Dark

When the day shift of the forest clocks out, another Brazil clocks in.

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Night in the Atlantic Rainforest, where the potoo calls

Wildlife · 5 min

The Potoo: The Forest’s Strangest Voice

By day, a broken branch. By night, the sound you will never forget.

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Saffron toucanet (Pteroglossus bailloni) perched on a tree branch

Photography · 8 min

Wildlife Photography in the Atlantic Rainforest: A Professional’s Guide

Light, patience, and a forest that rewards those who arrive before it wakes.

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The emergent canopy, home of the howler monkeys

Wildlife · 5 min

Howler Monkeys: The Loudest Sound in the Forest

Three kilometres away, you will hear them before the birds wake up.

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Male frilled coquette (Lophornis magnificus), with its crest, wings and tail visible

Wildlife · 6 min

The Jewels: Hummingbirds and Tanagers of the Canopy

The small, impossible colours that turn beginners into birdwatchers for life.

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Lake, forest and mountains in the REGUA reserve

Conservation · 6 min

What Is a Wildlife Corridor — and Why It Changes How You Travel

The quiet infrastructure of survival, and the spine of every Tamaruva journey.

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AI-generated illustration of a leaf-litter frog; not a field photographAI-generated illustration

Wildlife · 5 min

The Amphibian Symphony: Frogs of the Night Forest

The Atlantic Rainforest is one of the frog capitals of the world. After dark, it performs.

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River and Atlantic Forest in the lower sector of Itatiaia National Park, Brazil

Travel · 6 min

The Best Time to Visit the Atlantic Rainforest

The honest answer: it depends on what you came for. Here is the forest’s calendar.

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Mist over the lake and forest at REGUA

Conservation · 7 min

The REGUA Story: A Farm That Became a Forest

In the Guapiaçu valley, a cattle ranch bet on trees. The birds arrived like a verdict.

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Yellow flower of Vriesea vagans photographed in Itatiaia, Rio de Janeiro

The Forest · 5 min

Bromeliads, Orchids and the Gardens in the Air

The forest above the forest — where entire worlds grow on a single branch.

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The high country of Itatiaia above the clouds

Travel · 7 min

Itatiaia: Brazil’s First National Park, Above the Clouds

Where the Atlantic Rainforest learned to climb — and never stopped.

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Northern muriqui — representative species photograph

Wildlife · 8 min

The Northern Muriqui: Meeting the Rarest Primate in the Americas

In one corner of Rio de Janeiro State, the gentle giant of the forest still survives. Almost nobody knows.

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High-altitude fields above the Atlantic Rainforest

Wildlife · 6 min

Where the Forest Touches the Sky: High-Altitude Wildlife of the Serra

Above the treeline, a stranger, rarer cast takes over.

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The cliffs and silence of the Apex country

Travel · 6 min

The Apex Guide: Ten Days in the High Silence

How our longest journey works — and who it is really for.

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